Europe Tour - 2000

You can only wait so long, until it finally happens. Months of planning, packing decisions, anticipation and finally on Sept 30th it was here. France was only 10 hours away. Forty Wheelmen and spouses, friends and bunk mates (Bob Hawkins and Tommy Goodwin fit in there somewhere), headed for three weeks of bike touring in southern France and northwest Spain.

We met the bus with enclosed bike trailer and Robbie, our trusty Dutch driver from last year, at Orly airport and headed south into the Loire Valley. We made a big hit with the hotel staff, arriving for dinner about 10:30PM. They were on the curb awaiting our arrival. Luckily, John and Carol Abbe were also there to greet us after a week in Paris. Rooms of every description, and some beyond description. Robert and Waunita Fishbach’s room was soon designated as "Happy Hour" room as more than 3 people could fit into it.

Our first ride to get our legs back was a 42-mile spin along the Loire River to Amboise. Neal Bos planned each day’s route to avoid traffic and to visit as much countryside as possible. Our riverfront ride was no exception. Amboise was the perfect stop for lunch as there are lots of cafes and restaurants to choose from and shopping to last a week. We returned along the southern shore of the Loire River, stopping to visit the famous cave wineries-literally dug into the cliffs to age the wine at uniform temperatures. Besides supplies had to be procured for the first happy hour hosted by renowned gourmets, Ron and Susie Brown.

Gathering 40 people in one hotel room proved to be lots of fun, especially when the Shopper Chicks-those nonrider folks who would wave goodbye to the riders each morning, turn to the bus driver and say "Robbie, let’s go shopping today "had stories and adventures that needed telling as well. Since very good French wine could be purchased for about $3 per bottle, according to our wine guy Gerry Walburg, happy hours were eagerly anticipated. Dinner, maybe a walk to settle the tummy and off to bed was the routine most evenings.

Breakfast was typical French-bread and coffee, a little cheese square, jam and butter. Asking for more bread was met with blank stares. One croissant, a baguette and you’re off to ride 50 miles or so. Several riders soon supplemented breakfast with pastries, granola and fruit.

The Loire Valley is castle country, as they dot the landscape. Our 48 mile ride out to Chambord through farm country was very peaceful as the weather was cooperating with blue skies and a cool early October day. This country hunting estate, the largest chateau of the Loire region was built between 1518 and 1545 and was occupied by the owner, Francois I, for one season before his death. Louis XIV final took possession around 1660 with successors that included Louis XV and Marshall Berthier who received the chateau as a gift from Napoleon. Chambord has 440 rooms, 365 fireplaces and 84 staircases and the largest enclosed forest park in Europe. The central double helix staircase enabled people to ascend and descend without meeting each other.

On to the Chateau of Cheverny, built and owned by successive generations of the Hurault family. Each generation has enhanced this ornately furnished residence to its present grand state as a show piece of French art and architecture.

The following day we did a 54 miler with stops at Amboise again and a visit, along with the Shopper Chicks, to the famous Chenonceaux castle. Strategically built during the 16th century over the Cher River to collect a tax each time a boat wished to pass-which accounts for the magnificent gardens, royal tapestries and furnishings throughout. Our return ride included some unpaved forest paths more suited to the off roadies. Getting a little lost in a towering forest always results in a memorable adventure, even if one’s tires and wheels are asking what’s going on.

Villereal was our next hotel stop, further south and more rural in the Dordogne region. The bastide (village center) of Villereal was planned in 1265 as a means to gather the local population and was completed in only four years. Over 400 bastides were planned by the rulers of the time, with over 300 still in existence. A wide moat completely surrounded the village, eliminating the need for fortifications to keep out the hated English pillagers. The town center’s covered market place became a favorite hangout for the Shopper Chicks especially during the Saturday farmer’s market. Fresh fruit, veggies and wine at incredible prices. We settled into the hotel with happy hour on the deck, with pool-plenty of room. Carol Abbe was the brave soul to test the waters-just once however.

Our first ride of either 36 or 50 miles on a beautiful clear October morning through endless corn fields and vineyards, included a couple of options after the visit to the world famous (largely unknown) bicycle museum in Cadouin. An incredible assortment of old bikes, including one with thick leather straps that were attached from the pusher pedals to the rear wheel. Wooden bikes with wood dowel spokes (bone shakers), high front wheel, high rear wheel-you name it. They had a pair of ancient in line roller blades and several recumbants-so much for innovation. The set of iron rims with a spring on each spoke helped soften the ride, but did nothing to enhance stability-so much for creativity.

Some Wheelmen met the bus at Mont Flaquin for a visit of the 16th century abbey, and some great views of the French countryside. After a stop in Monpazier, another well preserved bastide, they continued on to Villeneuve-sur-Lot, a fortified riverside bastide built in 1264 to protect the locals from the marauding English hordes. Others continued on to Lanquais and a ride along the Dordogne River before climbing back out to the ancient town of Issigeac. Asking directions from our waitress in Lanquais was of no use as we could not even come close to pronouncing Issigeac so it was meaningful to her. We found it anyway. Four foot wide alleyways built before bikes were invented, stone homes built before dirt was invented (or so it seemed). Back to Villereal through the rolling countryside and small towns-St. Quentin du Dropt, Dt. Dizier, Doudrac, a roadies dream come true. Except perhaps for Jim Karver insisting that "California stops" should be legal in France. The local gendarmes were not convinced.

We all boarded the bus for a tour of a local chateau and winery. Luckily, Tom Goodwin had his GPS satellite navigation computer to help the bus driver navigate every bend in the road, both ways! The Chateau de Monbazillac, on top of a hill surrounded by vineyards afforded a great view of the region. Wine tasting consisted of one taste of a rather sweet white wine. However, the chateau tour was magnificent. Back to the hotel for happy hour and a celebration of Keith Steele and Harry Jones’ birthdays as well as the Walburg’s anniversary with baked Alaska. We never passed up an opportunity to celebrate.

Too soon we were back on the bus headed for the Pyrenees mountains and the famous Tour de France routes. After so much roller country, it seemed that what we saw on the horizon was a big cloud bank, but no-it was the Pyrenees looming up and up. We arrived in the town of Argeles-Gazost in time to zing a couple of email letters off to stateside Wheelmen, do some shopping for breakfast goodies and of course some shopping.

Another gorgeous morning greeted those who had eagerly anticipated the ride up Hautacam. The infamous mountain stage, where Lance gained the valuable minutes to capture the Tour this year, was everything and more that we’ve all seen on TV. Switch backs up and up with riders names painted on every square inch of road as we approached the summit. All that was missing was the cheers of the thousands of fans lining the road. We climbed through the clouds and stayed long enough for pictures before blasting down to a cafe to warm the bones and relive the morning over the plat de jour of baked chicken in a garlic wine, puree of sautéed mushroom sauce and pan fried spaghetti-accompanied by an ample supply of great French table wine.

Gathering back at the hotel after lunch a few intrepid Wheelmen headed out to climb the second mountain of the day. Luz Ardiden is less well known but just as steep and intimidating as Hautacam. Incredible views down into the valley below made it all worthwhile. Neal Bos, during announcements at dinner that evening made the point that it must have taken a "lion heart" to climb both mountains as only Richard Percival, Richard Shultz and Richard Zipf successfully completed the pair.

Hautacam proved to be the site of several personal triumphs. Bob Backer and Deborah Walburg trained for several months and successfully conquered Hautacam. Dave Moffett, Ralph and Kris Lemeur and a couple of other riders actually made it to the tip top of Hautacam, through dense clouds that severely limited visibility. Ralph and Kris almost made it down the mountain too fast as the disc brake on their new tandem tried to come apart . A little reengineering and a prayer got them down safely. Prayers were answered when a local bike shop owner was able to fix the brake and would not accept any payment. So much for the unfriendly reputation of the French.

We dreamed that night of the upcoming day’s climbs of the famous Col du Tourmalet and Col d’ Aubisque but it was not to be. The rain gods decided we had conquered enough for one trip and delivered a layer of snow on top of each pass. So we headed off towards Lourdes for shopping. After visiting a local bike shop, the owner was so pleased with his revenues for an off season morning that he presented our bus driver with a nice bottle of wine. After a few hours in Lourdes, we completed the outing with a fun ride on the Funiculair du Pic du Jer a 19th century pair of cable cars, drawn up very steep rails to the summit for a walk through the natural caves and a superb view of the Lourdes and Argeles valleys.

Luckily the rains quit each evening so happy hours were held as scheduled. Again, Robert and Waunita must have bribed the hotel for the spectacular view room. We rewarded them with 38 rowdy guests just before dinner!

Back on the bus again, headed for San Sebastian, Spain. We stopped at the same bike shop just long enough to order the local jersey that will be the envy of all once we receive them in March. On the way there was a roadside memorial to the Tour de France. A magnificent metal sculpture depicting full size riders on bikes in pursuit of the yellow jersey. Inspiring!

We arrived in Spain just in time to learn that October 12th was a national holiday and no stores were open in the entire country. Dick Shultz’ Spanish came in handy to convince the hotel bar tender that we could not survive without our evening fix of wine and goodies. Apparently 14 bottles of wine get you all the Spanish olives you can eat. We had plenty. Dinner included lots of wine as well. The other bus tour group of about 200 senior citizens, who joined us in the dining room enjoyed our celebration toasts to lots of things that nobody seemed to recall the next day.

The first day’s ride was modified as rain was predicted to the north and luckily we were headed south. Bikes in the trailer and off towards Bilboa for shopping and a tour of the Guggenheim museum-riding decision to be made later. Approaching Bilboa, there seemed to be a break in the clouds so six (Neal Bos, Rich Percival, Jim Karver, Carrie Sundahl, Chris Drews and Dick Shultz ) of the more hearty, or perhaps foolhardy Wheelmen mounted up and headed up into the mountains towards the Basque coast. As soon as the bus was out of sight it began to rain and rain and rain as we climbed and climbed and climbed. There was never any thought of turning around as the bus was gone and besides our lone female rider, Carrie, seemed to be handling it just fine (no male ego here). We had some of the best coastal scenery of the trip that would remind one of rugged Big Sur or the Monterey Peninsula. We anticipated getting drenched by the waves crashing over the sea walls that protected the shoreline just before and after each little town, but the rain gods had already tested us enough. We were met with a hero’s welcome back in San Sebastian as we were still alive, did not require a sag, arrived earlier than expected and without incident. 72 miles and 4000 feet of climbing was a good reward for a soggy days effort. The only significant injury was Shopper Chick, Nancy Shultz’ broken foot sustained while exiting the bus in hot pursuit of another bargain.

After a final day in Spain, touring Pamplona’s closed stores (we forgot siesta time) and a candle-light happy hour hosted by Jerry and Lynn Lasarow, we headed north to Rochefort with the anticipation of rides to three off-shore islands the following days. You know what’s coming-rain! Luckily, we had a celebration to attend as it was Tom Goodwin’s 75th birthday and he did indeed celebrate. Gifts, some of which were brought on the trip for the occasion and some obvious French ones definitely not, made the evening memorable, to say the least! GO Tom.

Not to be denied, about 15 Wheelmen who had been off the bikes too long, started off the next morning in the rain for a ride to the resort island of Ile d’ Oleron. Flats and poor visibility soon separated the paceline and it was everyone for themselves. Dick Shultz with Mike and Sandy Dillon on tandem close behind had the opportunity to intimidate trucks, busses and cars for 22 km in the rain on the main highway as they missed the turn-off to the less exciting farm road. Miraculously, everyone arrived at the far point of the island for lunch without major incident. (One can only get so lost on an island.) The bus with trailer and the Shopper Chicks met us for lunch with the thought that the sopping wet riders would welcome a nice, warm return bus ride back to the hotel. Of course, the clouds parted, the sun shines just enough to convince about 6 partially dried out Wheelmen that riding back would be a great idea. Well guess what, it was gorgeous all afternoon. We rode along back roads (that some of us had missed earlier in the day), through the fortified village of Brouge where we stopped for coffee. The cafe owners and one other patron, being off season, were whiling away the afternoon playing cribbage and drinking coffee. What a life. A very bored dog spied us and demanded petting during our entire stop. We were pleased to oblige. However, both Bob Hawkins and John Abbe found flats there. The dog pleaded ignorance.

Too soon and not soon enough for others we were back on the bus, headed for the Normandie coast to visit the historic allied invasion sites and memorials of WW II. We visited the most famous castle in France, Mont Saint Michelle, situated on a small island just off-shore. Originally built as a small abbey retreat, it has become a magnificent castle, with the original abbey completely enclosed inside the present fortress. A quick tour, some quicker shopping and we were back on the road.

Courseulles sur Mer was our home for three days of touring the now peaceful coast and small towns along the infamous World War II invasion beaches of Sword, Juno, Gold, Omaha and Utah. Those names are still used by the French in remembrance and gratitude to the allied forces. Visiting the American cemetery at Omaha beach, the movie theater in-the-round that showed invasion combat cameramen’s work, Point-du-Hoc (the shore cliff invasion made famous in the movie Private Ryan) were all very moving testimony to the horrors of war. Our ride returned by way of farm roads with hedgerow bordered lanes and fields that were the sites of some of the most terrifying, hand-to-hand combat of the war as soldiers never knew whether the enemy was just a few feet away on the other side of the hedgerow, waiting for the right moment.

After a visit to the U.S. Airborne museum in St. Mere-Eglise, which was the first town liberated by the allied forces, we unloaded the bikes and began our 45 mile ride to Cherbourg, the closest point to England. We were introduced to Utah beach, the preserved German bunker and gun implacements that were constructed between 1939 and 1944 in preparation for the invasion that they knew would come and several small towns along the way. Again, a wonderful plat de jour lunch that was more than expected for the price. The Shopper Chicks were waiting by the bus to cheer us in as we met at a predesignated spot at the harbor, right on time! Dave and Barb Moffett, Joe and Shirley Kremer and Jim and Joyce Karver combined forces in hosting the final gourmet, blowout happy hour to the delight of their guests, even if the hotel folks weren’t quite as receptive. Last night-go for it!

Too soon we were packing up mud caked bikes, grimy wheels and all for the trip back to Paris and home. Of course, one nameless Wheelmen of "don’t race on Tuesday fame" packed his passport and airplane tickets in his bike box, luckily retrieved before checking luggage in Paris! We made a "snack stop" out of a rest stop along the highway to finish off the rest of the happy hour goodies that had somehow not been consumed. Picture a seagull feeding frenzy over a bag of french fries. We ate it all and it was GOOD! Passing by the Eiffel Tower, we knew the tour would soon be over. Eleven hours of playing airborne sardine brought us back safe and sound to the Bos residence at 1:30 a.m. on October 20th. Except for dead car batteries, frozen fuel pumps, etc. everyone headed for home with lifetime memories happily tucked away for recall whenever a smile or a funny story is needed.

Neal and Linda Bos spent almost a year planning the trip, including visiting each area to scout out hotels and bike routes and putting together a travel book for each Wheelman that would make any travel agency jealous. This was truly an adventure that could not be bought. With all the planning and daily leadership that went into it’s success-it was a gift. Plans are getting firmed up for Europe 2001, so the anticipation begins anew.